Friday, August 21, 2015

How to Add a Faux Madeira Applique Collar


Hi, this is Linda from MCM Studio Designs.  I've been sewing for over 30 years and started my pattern company last year in 2014.  I love sharing ideas and helping others to venture into their creative side.  If you would like to see more of my patterns you can see them at www.themerrychurchmouse.com.

Today I'm going to show you how to add a faux Madeira applique collar to my Trumpet Flower Dress pattern.  Madeira applique is a classic technique that is often seen in heirloom sewing.  It is a beautiful technique, but one that can be a bit time consuming and requires a bit of patience.  I'm going to show you how to get a similar look without as much fuss.

To make things even better, the Trumpet Flower Dress pattern will be on sale starting today and running through August 31st.  The regular price for this pattern is $7 US, it will be on sale for $4 US.

For this tutorial you will need:

-The Collar Templates (Click here for the collar templates only and here for the full tutorial in PDF form)

-The Trumpet Flower Dress pattern

-Main fabric for your dress as specified in the pattern

-A piece of contrasting fabric approximately 6 x 9 inches (15.25 x 23cm) for the collar piece

-A piece of Heat 'n Bond Feather Lite fusible web approximately 6 x 9 inches (15.25 x 23cm)

-Thread for stitching the edge of the collar (I chose a contrasting color to accent the stitching)

-Two pieces of water soluble stabilizer approximately 6 x 9 inches (15.25 x 23cm)

-A wing needle for your sewing machine (I used a size 100/16). Using a wing needle will leave decorative holes in the fabric.  These will not ravel the fabric.

-Any other buttons, lace, etc. that you would like to add to the dress.


So here's how you do it:

1. Cut out dress as instructed in the pattern.

2. Print collar template.


3. Trace collar template onto the paper side of the Heat 'n Bond Featherlite.


4. Cut out the collar leaving a small amount of the paper outside of the line.


5. Iron the traced collar to the wrong side of your collar fabric with the paper side of the fusible web toward you. Make sure that the center of the collar is straight on the grain of the fabric.

6. Allow this piece to cool completely before moving it.


7. Cut out the collar and remove the paper backing.


8. Place bodice piece face up on ironing board and layer the collar right side up on top.  Line up the neck edge and shoulders.

9. Press into place and allow to cool.


10.  Place one piece of water soluble stabilizer below the collar portion of the bodice, and another one on top.  The bodice piece should be sandwiched in between them.


11.  Place a couple of pins well out of the way of the collar to hold the layers together.


12.  Place your wing needle into your sewing machine.  When using a wing needle you will have to thread it by hand, most automatic threaders will not work with a wing needle.


13. Choose the blanket or pin stitch setting on your machine.  It looks like this on my machine.  (If you don't have this stitch, you could sew a buttonhole stitch by hand using embroidery floss in which case you may want to use a heavier iron on stabilizer only on the back side of the bodice piece or place it in a hoop instead.)


14. Thread your machine with your chosen thread and run a few stitches on a prepared scrap to make sure that the stitches are turned the right direction and are the size and width that you want to use.  On my machine I had to mirror image the stitch and I reduced both the length and the width.  Here are the settings that I used. It is important to use the same weight of thread in both the needle and the bobbin.


15.  Stitch carefully around the scalloped edge of the collar.  Line the edge of the collar up with the center position of your needle.  When the needle swings to the right it should be just barely off of the right edge of the collar.  When it swings to the left it should be stitching into the collar. When you reach the points between the scallops you will need to pivot and then continue.  I found this easiest to do by hand walking the last few stitches before the point of the scallop.  When the needle swings back to the right to continue the forward stitching, stop with the needle down in the fabric and pivot your fabric at that point.



16.  Add any other embroidery or decoration to the collar that you would like to add at this point. Bullion roses or lazy daisy flowers in each of the scallops could be really pretty.  A monogrammed initial in the center would be nice as well.

17.  Trim away any excess stabilizer and save for another project.


18.  Carefully rinse out the remaining stabilizer, blot the bodice piece with a clean towel to remove excess moisture and allow it to dry flat.  If you don't have time to allow it to air dry, you can use your iron and a pressing cloth and press it very carefully until it is dry. Be careful not to scorch your bodice piece if you chose to press it dry.  I DO NOT recommend drying it in the dryer as it may cause it to fray and it may alter the shape of the piece.

19.  I added the small button at the center at this point.


20.  Assemble the dress according to the instructions in the pattern.  You may have to clip the curve of the neckline a little closer together than you would a single layer of fabric.  The only change that I made was that I did not topstich on top of the collar portion of the neckline.  I started at the inside of one shoulder and went around to the other side at the inside of the shoulder again, omitting just the front portion of the neck.  This is a personal preference as I just liked the clean look of the collar without the stitching.


21.  I added a little bit of eyelet lace to the hem for a little more detail.

22. Enjoy your dress!








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