Friday, October 23, 2015

Serging Curves Part 2

Serging curves, part 2 with Katie of Duck Butt Designs
If you joined us for the last blog post, I hope that the tips were helpful and that you have gotten to practice serging inside and outside curves.
Once you have that skill down, the next skills to master are serging opposite curves, and serging in the round. These are handy skills for making garments (especially the popular maxaloones and treasure pocket tee patterns or binding neck lines) and even for basic projects like cloth wipes and unpaper towels.
First, I will show you how I serge opposite curves. Like last time, we will be working with a square that has been cut in the middle on a curve, only this time we will be putting the square back together by serging the inside curve to the outside curve.
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The first step is to match the center of the two pieces, and then the ends. Since we will be serging the pieces together with some seam allowance, the tails of the inside curve will overhang the outside curve a bit, and that’s OK.
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Whenever I am sewing opposite curves, I like to keep my inside curve on top. I find it easier to manipulate it that way, making it conform to the shape of the outside curve. It is fine to have the fabric gathered as much as you would like to the left of the needles as long as the fabric under the needles is smooth. Now you will treat it like an outside curve, but you may also have to smooth the fabric out under the presser foot as you do when sewing an inside curve. As always, as long as your edges match and the seam allowance is smooth, you should be fine.

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Notice that it looks a little wrinkled? No worries. Hot, steamy iron to the rescue!C:\Users\Katie Wilson\Downloads\Desktop\DBD\Betties\IMG_7117.JPG

From there you can top stitch for a nice, professional finish.

Serging in the round is a natural extension of serging curves; if your curve goes all the way around the fabric, you end up back where you started.
When I start to serge in the round, I decide where to start. Usually this is the back of the garment a little to the side, but if you are working on a towel, at a corner is a good place to start. I usually cut in a little bit from the raw edge so that my knife has something to take off once I come back around to the start.
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When I get back to my start, I disengage my knife. You don’t have to do this, just be careful not to cut the stitches that you have already made. I like to pull the tail from the beginning of the stitches over and away from the knife so that it is secured by the next round of stitches. I know several accomplished sewists who pull the tail over in front of the knife, which is a fine option as well.
Continue to serge over the beginning of your stitches for an inch or two.
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Finally, turn your fabric so that the chain stitch goes right off of the edge. From there you can finish as you normally would: threading the tail back in, cutting and use fray check, and slipping one of the looper threads out and tying off are all easy choices.
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I hope that you have enjoyed these tutorials! As with everything, expertise will come with practice. If you find yourself getting stuck, you can hop over to Serge and Chat on Facebook, a support group for all things serger related.
Happy Serging!

Katie Wilson

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